A Portal to the Old World

A G.P.S. comes in handy on the way to Dubrovnik, an exciting, handsome restaurant on an unprepossessing block on Main Street in New Rochelle. This authentic Croatian spot — my Croatian-American guests thought the only thing missing was the Adriatic lapping at limestone cliffs — is polished but not fussy, just like the dishes created by its Croatian owner and chef, Zeljko Tomic, known as Jerry.

The fare is simple and home-style, from a chef who is expert in roasting the menu’s many meat and fish options over an open wood-fired grill, and in preparing whatever fresh vegetables, fruits and fish happen to be on hand and in season. In the back of the restaurant, a large, sunken garden provides the kitchen with much of the seasonal produce.

While weather permits and heat lamps glow, the patio is a lovely place to sit for a view of the sunset or the stars, and to wonder whether you are in New Rochelle at all. Plans are afoot to have the space open throughout the year.

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